I’ve been having the worstbest time trying to adapt one of our scents based on the feedback we received from the samples we sent out. The sample, 0022, was a bit of an outlier in that it was originally designed as a People Places Things Spray (that’s a thing, right?) and, as such, it was unique in that it was a fairly low concentration (much closer to EDT at about 10% fragrance concentration, very low alcohol, and skin and surface friendly solvents IPM and DPG. 

The central note, grapefruit, is a marvelous material but surprisingly challenging as the character changes immensely at different concentrations and in different contexts. This is true for all materials but grapefruit can be really extra.

This is in large part due to the terpene nootkatone, a molecule that is partly responsible for the bitter scent of grapefruit peel and pith. It occurs naturally in a lot of citrus, as well as Alaskan cedar. It is detectable at very low concentrations. This was something we exploited in Paloma, pushing the nootkatone with both cedar and grapefruit oils, as well as an additional overdose in the form of a natural isolate. It worked particularly well to push the boozy tequila accord, because of the outstanding bitterness.

But 0022 wasn’t boozy. It was an immensely sweet candied grapefruit peel accord built around 2 types of grapefruit oils (pink and white) and a hearty dose of vanilla and malt materials. In low concentrations, this is non-problematic. Sweetness, citrus, and bright bitter notes have all the room they need to sing their parts in a harmony. But we got so much positive feedback about the scent with a request to release it as an EDP and I decided to give it a try.

A couple of things going in to the adaption process. First, I love the idea of mists, roomsprays, candles, creams….all of it. I am always looking for fun ways to adapt and expand our line but am also daunted by the simple logistics of it: new packaging, new processes, new regulations and manufacturing and consumer safety. Second, I knew the formula would not be as simple as just changing the concentration of materials. What works at 10% becomes a challenge at 20-25% because of material safety. Grapefruit is photosensitizing and is limited by IFRA. I knew the materials we used would need to be substituted, rebalanced, and possibly replaced. 

That said, we started by simply changing the concentration just to see how the character of the scent changed. Lemme tell ya–it was WILDLY different at 17%, let alone 22%. 

What started as a light and candied citrus at 10% became a cloud: a musty fug of humidity that brought to mind a room with a window too long closed.

All the pieces were there but the character was totally different. Totally unappealing.

It feels a little vulnerable to talk about the adaptation process because I feel confident had I been trained in Grasse, I would have had a clear understanding of what to do to bring forward the bitterness without the humid density. But being self-taught, everything comes down to reading everything I can, asking others, and countless trials. 

Well, not countless, 17 trials actually. Everyday working through an iterative process increasing and eliminating materials and doses. Taking careful notes. Thinking I have solved something only to realize after a day or two of maceration the same (or new!!!) issues were emerging.

If this sounds like drudgery, it was. If this sounds magical, it was. 

And I am so thrilled with where we landed. We rounded out the citrus with a beautiful lemon oil and Tunisian orange blossom. Instead of the dense malted sugar, we used materials that brought out the sweetness without any heaviness. At 22% it is a bright and fizzy gourmand with the kind of sillage that seems carried by fairytale birds. 

The scent, Cult of Kindness, will be ready in September.